7
ENGLISH
Fig. M1
Fig. M3
Fig. M2
Fig. M4
Trigger Switch (Fig. N)
To turn the saw on, push the lock-off lever
32
to the left, then depress the trigger switch
1
. The
saw will run while the switch is depressed. Allow the blade to spin up to full operating speed
before making the cut. To turn the saw off, release the switch. Allow the blade to stop before
raising the saw head. There is no provision for locking the switch on. A hole
33
is provided in the
trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the switchoff.
Always be sure the blade has stopped before removing it from thekerf.
Fig. N
32
1
33
Dust Extraction (Fig. O)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn unit off and disconnect
it from power source before making any adjustments or removing/installing
attachments or accessories. An accidental start-up can causeinjury.
Your saw has a built-in dust port
12
that allows either the supplied dust bag
35
or a shop
vacuum system to beconnected.
To Attach the Dust Bag
1. Fit the dust bag
35
to the dust port
12
as shown in FigureO.
35
12
Fig. O
To Empty the Dust Bag
1. Remove dust bag
35
from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag toempty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port
12
.
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap it
on the side of the trash can or dustreceptacle.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or DeWALT dust extractor is in
place. Wood dust may create a breathinghazard.
Cutting with Your Saw
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our
discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. DO
NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL) MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not
use any abrasiveblades.
Crosscuts
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the
grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the mitre arm at the zero degree position. Set
the mitre arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the saw
by squeezing thetrigger.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personalinjury.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raisingarm.
Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. After selecting the
desired mitre angle, be sure to lock mitre lock knob. Make the cut as describedabove.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible.
Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine
which direction to adjust the mitre angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a
commonly usedtechnique.
Bevel Cuts (Fig. A)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob
11
and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary to
move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel
clamp knobfirmly.
Bevel angles can be set up to 48° left and can be cut with the mitre arm set between zero and 50°
right or left. At some extreme angles, the left side fence might have to be removed. To remove
the left fence, unscrew the fence locking knob
14
several turns and slide the fenceout.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut,
blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of thecut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desiredresults.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade
come to a full stop before raisingarm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on
the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
whenfinished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to Saw Blades underAccessories.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make anyadjustments.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable
surface. Personal injury mayoccur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever the
clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other part of
the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of thesaw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personalinjury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape,
etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100mm) from the blade, a clamp or other fixture must
beused.
For best results use the clamp
21
provided with your saw. Additional DW7090 clamps can be
purchased at your local retailer or DeWALT servicecenter.
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