29
OPERATION
SALT WATER
Additional anodic protection for the outboard has been pro-
vided for use in salt or brackish water.
Upon removal from salt water, leave outboard in a vertical
position until its cooling system has drained. During long
periods of mooring, tilt the gearcase out of the water, ex-
cept in freezing temperatures. Flush the outboard, if de-
sired. Refer to FLUSHING on page 38.
Salt Water Lubrication Points
1. Trailering bracket and swivel bracket lubrication points
(annually)
1. Tilt tube lubrication points (annually)
Anti-Corrosion Anodes
Your outboard is equipped with one or more anodes that
protect it from galvanic corrosion. Disintegration of the an-
ode is normal and indicates it is working. Check each an-
ode periodically. Replace anodes smaller than 2/3 their
original size. See your Dealer for replacements.
Galvanic corrosion destroys underwater metal parts and
can occur in fresh or salt water; however, salt, brackish,
and polluted waters will accelerate corrosion.
Metal-based antifouling paint on the boat or outboard and
the use of improperly installed shore power in the area of
your moored boat will also accelerate corrosion.
IMPORTANT: NEVER paint the anode, its fasteners, or its
mounting surface. Painting will reduce its corrosion protec-
tion.
WEEDY WATER
Weeds block water intakes and may cause your outboard
to overheat. Weeds on the propeller create vibration and
reduce boat speed.
When operating in weedy water, run at slow speeds and in
REVERSE frequently to clear weeds from the propeller and
water intakes. Check the water pump indicator often.
If REVERSE operation does not clear away weeds, SHUT
OFF the engine. Remove weeds from propeller area and
water intakes before operating at higher speed.
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