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ENGLISH
1. Turn on the XPS™ system, then pull down on the operating handle
2
to bring the saw blade close to the wood. The shadow of the blade will
appear on thewood.
2. Align the pencil line with the edge of the blade’s shadow. You may
have to adjust the mitre or bevel angles in order to match the pencil
lineexactly.
Through-Cutting Operations (Fig. A1, A2,P,Q)
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far
as possible and the rail lock knob
6
is tightened. This will prevent the saw
from sliding along its rails as the workpiece isengaged.
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by
ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table andfence.
Straight Vertical Crosscut
1. Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, and hold the wood firmly on the
table
17
and against the fence
13
.
2. With the rail lock knob
6
tightened, turn on the saw by pushing the
lock-off lever
25
and squeezing the trigger switch
24
.
3. When the saw comes up to speed, lower the arm smoothly and slowly
to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before
raisingarm.
Sliding Crosscut (Fig. A1, P)
When cutting anything larger than a 51 x 115mm (51 x 82mm at
45° mitre) workpiece, use an out-down-back motion with the rail lock
knob
6
loosened.
Pull the saw out toward you, lower the saw head down toward the
workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete thecut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out.
The saw may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage
to theworkpiece.
Mitre Crosscut (Fig. Q)
The mitre angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere
from zero to 50° left or 60° right. Proceed as for a straight verticalcrosscut.
When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51 x 105mm that
are shorter in length, always place the longer side against thefence.
Bevel Cut (Fig. A1, A2)
Bevel angles can be set from 49° right to 49° left and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between 50° left or 60° right. Refer to the Features and
Controls section for detailed instructions on the bevelsystem.
1. Loosen the bevel lock knob
33
, and move the saw to the left or right
as desired. It is necessary to move the fence
13
to allow clearance.
Tighten the fence adjustment knob
12
after positioning thefences.
2. Tighten the bevel lockfirmly.
At some extreme angles, the right side fence might have to be removed.
Refer to Fence Adjustment in the Adjustments section for important
information on adjusting the fences for certain bevelcuts.
To remove the right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob
12
several
turns and slide the fenceout. The right fence is secured to the base with a
lanyard to prevent it from beinglost.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, such as the
material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate ofcut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a
sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce
the desiredresults.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not move or creep while
cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full
stop before raising arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at the rear
of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where
the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
whenfinished.
Non-Through-Cutting (Grooving and Rabbeting)
(Fig. A2)
Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop
30
, depth adjustment
screw
29
and wing nut
28
to allow for groovecutting. Instructions in the
Sliding Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts and Cutting Compound Mitres sections are
for cuts made through the full thickness of the material. The saw can also
perform non-through cuts to form grooves or rabbets in thematerial.
Grooving (Fig. A1, A2)
Refer to Grooving Stop for detailed instructions for setting depth of cut. A
piece of scrap wood should be used to verify the desired depth ofcut.
1. Hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence
13
. Align
the cut area underneath the blade. Position the saw arm fully forward,
with blade in down position. Turn on the saw by pushing the lock-off
lever
25
and squeezing the trigger switch
24
. Smoothly, push saw
arm rearward to cut a groove through the workpiece.
2. Release the trigger switch with the saw arm down. When saw blade has
completely stopped, raise the saw arm. Always let the blade come to a
full stop before raising thearm.
3. To widen the groove, repeat steps 1–2 until the desired width
isobtained.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig.C)
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed. An
unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is attached to,
such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is
firmly bolted to a stable surface. Personal injury mayoccur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of
the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to
the base of the saw – not to any other part of the work area. Ensure
the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of thesaw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce
the risk of personal injury and workpiecedamage.
Use the material clamp
39
provided with your saw. The left or right fence
will slide from side to side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring
clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and
shapes ofmaterial.
To Install Clamp
1. There are four rectangular clamp mounting holes
68
in the base, two
in the front and two on the back of the saw under the base fence. Insert
the clamp
39
into one of the fourholes.
NOTE: When assembling the clamp on the back side of the saw, the
arm of the clamp will need to be at the highest position so that clamp
post can be slid into the mounting hole as the clamp passes over
thefence.
2. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, tighten the knob to
firmly clamp theworkpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK
THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH
THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces (Fig.E)
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.
For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033 leg stands
41
to extend
the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any
convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends
fromdropping.