52
Relationship between the needle, thread and fabric, and adjusting
the thread tension
The quality of the sewing finish will improve if the needle and thread are selected to match the type of fabric used.
Follow the recommendations in the table below.
• Use a ball point needle for the sewing alignment of stretch fabric.
• When purchasing any needles not included as accessories, check that they are specified as home-use
sewing machine needles.
• Use the same type of threads for the upper and lower threads.
• The larger the needle number, the thicker the needle. The larger the thread number, the thinner the thread.
• It may be necessary to adjust the upper thread tension according to the fabric, thread and needle
combination. (Refer to page 88.)
<Selecting a needle suitable for the thread>
Pass the thread to be used through the eye of the needle, and then hold both
ends of the thread to give the thread slack so that the needle slides along it, as
shown.
If the needle does not catch, the needle and thread are a good combination.
Since a needle that is too thick for the thickness of the thread will result in poor-
quality stitching, select the needle with the smallest number possible, which will
not catch on the thread.
If the needle frequently catches on the thread or does not slide along it, stitching
of poor quality will be produced. In this case, select a needle with a different
number or a different type of thread.
Normally, sew with the upper thread tension dial set to “ ”.
Thin fabrics Normal fabrics Thick fabrics
Relationship between the needle,
thread and fabric
Needle
No. 11/75 No. 14/90 No. 18/110
Thread
Polyester No. 90
Cotton No. 80 to No. 120
Silk No. 80
Polyester No. 50 to
No. 60
Cotton No. 60 to No. 80
Silk No. 50 to No. 80
Polyester No. 30 to
No. 50
Cotton No. 40 to No. 50
Silk No. 50
Fabric
Lining
Cuprammonium rayon
Georgette
Lawn
Lace, etc.
Normal clothing fabric
Broad
Soft denim
Satin
Pile
Gingham, etc.
Curtains
Denim
Quilting
Fleece
Tweed
Felt, etc.
Reference
thread tension
Upper thread
tension dial
-1 – -3 +1 – +5
Tip
+1
+2
-
1
-
2
-
1
-
3
+1
+2
-
1
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